A Date, a Visit to a Museum and Some Roman Tips
I am really nervous tonight: I have a date. I am very exited to get to know Fabrizio Faraco in real life, we have met online through a professional group on Facebook. Those of you who have made friends online and got to meet them in real life as well, know what I am talking about.
On the way to Trastevere
We go to Trastevere and walk the short distance to Freni e Frizioni, a lovely place orinally set up as a mechanical workshop. They serve small dishes of cold and hot food, the price is included in the drinks (€ 6 – 8).
Fabrizio Faraco describes himself as “a marketer who lived in many worlds“. Above all he has a very engaging and generous personality and after five minutes it is as if we had known each other for a long time. We share many common interests, amongst others un passione per la Toscana. And he knows so much about Rome, its history and he provides us with a list of restaurants which you will find at the end of this post.
Picture courtesy of Fabrizio
Thank you Fabrizio and I look forward to next time!
Dinner tonight is at Ferrara, a short walking distance from the bar. This is one of the IT places in Rome and we are very much taken with the open spaced interior.
When you order wine they will bring you two large volumes, it is about as difficult to navigate as is their website. I am not very enthusiastic about Ferrara, it is rather expensive and I shall leave it at that. But it might be a nice idea to go there for an aperitivo and enjoy the hustle and bustle of Trastevere.
The next day we take the Ciao Roma Bus (good thing those tickets are valid 24 hours!) to the Jewish Quarter.
We walk past the pasticceria and cannot resist enjoying another dolce. And I find the most enchanting marchpane lamb to take home:
We head towards the Campo di Fiori and its rather touristy food market, rather steep prices and hardly any Romans will do their weekend food shopping here (I mean: I would not).
I am intrigued by the Puntarelle until I see someone prepare them in a mercato rionale (local market), what a lot of work goes into making them and what pleasure it is to eat them!
The museum building is the main attraction
For all of you who would like to visit the museum by public transport and do not wish for a long walk along the other side of the river Tiber (hint hint): take the subway to the station Flaminio and change to tram no. 2 which will take you to the station Apollodoro. Alternatives are bus no. 53, 217, 280, 910.
Tickets for public transport can be bought at any Tabaccheria (the tobacco shops are marked with a big T) for € 1 and are valid for 75 minutes on either subway, bus or tram.
We see their current exhibition by Pieter Hugo: Permanent Error, showing through 27 disturbing photographic portraits an immense, apocalyptical high-tech dump in Ghana. Very intense.
Enough culture for today and we try to find our way back by public transport via Piazza del Popolo, all the way along the Via del Corso, to the Pantheon.
We have some late lunch next to my favourite Rococo church, la Santa Maddalena in Campo Marzio and this is the only time during our Rome trip that it rains. We are lucky to sit well protected under some huge umbrellas. It is only a short shower and we continue our window shopping tour, regale ourselves with a wonderful gelato (dark chocolate and caramelised crème brûlée) from Il Gelato San Crispino.
It is Saturday and the historic Rome is packed with people, we gladly return to our hotel for some quiet relaxing time.
Tonight we plan to go to Testaccio, unfortunately we have messed up the restaurants and their addresses and the nice woman taxi driver finally takes us to Il Capo de Fero (yes, in Trastevere again!) , a very authentic Roman restaurant. I am pleased with my choice of carciofi alla guidia (deep fried artichokes) and a paillard di vitello (thinly cut veal scaloppine, shortly grilled). Excellent coffee to finish the meal.
We go back to the hotel by taxi (our feet are not up to any more walking) and have a nightcap outside before we retire.
Valerio (remember: he drove us into town on Thursday, only three days ago) comes to pick us up at the hotel in the late morning and we say a sad farewell to beautiful Rome. But I will be back!
He is the most ingenious driver: what normally takes about 40 minutes he manages to do in half the time, he knows amazing shortcuts!
BTW the taxi fares from the airports to the center of town and vice versa are fixed. To be more precise, the fare is fixed from the airport to anywhere within the Aurelian walls which covers the majority of the hotels in Rome.
The fare from Fiumicino is € 40, from Ciampino it is € 30. The first luggage is free and after that it is €1 each. Here are more details from the Comune di Roma.
Some valuable tips for eating out in Rome
(and this is another reason to come back to Rome, to savour all the food, I am always looking for the near perfect dinner and I cannot say I have been to any restaurants I would really like to recommend)
Big thanks to Fabrizio Faraco for his great list:
In zona Flaminio, could well be combined with a visit to Maxxi.
Il Spirito DiVino
Rather highly priced
Same price level
moderately priced between € 15 – 25
located on Piazza Augusto Imperatore
Interesting concept, this is definitely on my wish list for next time!
Gust restaurant € 25 – 40
Pizzeria / Brunch € 10 -20
Osteria € 20 – 35
Tati / aperitivi / fusion € 15 – 30
Restaurant Bar with fusion food
The Perfect Bun
Lovely restaurant with American dishes and Italian ingredients frequented by young people (watch out, guys: Tuesday evenings are Fabrizio’s tip for beautiful single girls)
Daniele Buzzuro has kindly offered the following list of restaurants:
Go there for pizza
where you have a choice between pizza and Chinese food
I would also like to recommend following Diana Simon on her blog Browsing Rome, she has been living in Rome for several years and she always finds interesting new places to see and go to and has valuable advice to offer.