Vogel Gryff or To Whom The Bell Tolls

Barbara Klein Basel 32 Comments

Vogel Gryff – A Local Custom

I believe that taking part in local customs is root building, strengthens our social skills and – well โ€“ let us just have some fun!

This last Friday, on a rather rainy and grey day, we celebrated a local custom in Kleinbasel (the part of the town which is on the right side of the river Rhine): Vogel Gryff.

It is a daylong holiday in January which lasts well into the night: a procession of the three symbolic figures Wilder Mann (the savage), Leu (the lion) and Vogel Gryff (the griffin) of the three Kleinbasel societies or guilds, accompanied by drummers, flag bearers and four Ueli (they resemble the arlecchino or jester of the classical Italian comedy) collecting small change (bills are accepted too) for the poor people in Kleinbasel.

Ueli_am_Tag

Each heraldic figure is beautifully dressed in historical costumes and masks (weighing quite a lot) and has its own typical dance steps (menacing for the savage, playful prancing for the lion and majestic steps for the griffin).

Historically it dates back to 16th century, the reason for it is not clear, it is attributed to military purposes.

Today the three societies are part of social life and help to strengthen community ties in Kleinbasel.

Rhein

The celebrations start with a raft floating down the river Rhine, carrying the Wilder Mann (menacingly shaking his pine tree and never facing Grossbasel), a drummer and flag bearer, honorary guests and two cannonneers firing cannon salutes.

He is met by his colleagues, the lion and the griffin, below the Mittlere Rheinbrรผcke (the first bridge crossing the Rhine in 1215) and the processions start, taking them from one place to another of performing their traditional dances according to a strict ritual.

The celebrations continue with a lengthy festive lunch for all members of the societies (roughly 450 men, women are not allowed membership in the societies!). In the afternoon and evening, the symbolic figures resume dancing in the streets of Kleinbasel.

My grandfather was a proud member of one of these societies and we greatly admired him in his black suit, coat and hat. In his days, you had to own real estate in Kleinbasel to be admitted to one of the societies. It has somewhat become more liberal.

And what does it mean for me? A festive day which I spend with my family and friends, watching the raft coming down the river standing in the middle of the bridge next to the small chapel tolling the bell, following the procession to see some dances and then proceed for a lengthy lunch in the famous and prominent restaurant Torstรผbli, where Lotti Weber, our host, welcomes us.

We eat the traditional Rรถsti with Lรคberli (crispy hash-browns and sliced veal liver):

typical dish enjoyed on Vogel Gryff

It is a very familiar atmosphere, practically everybody knows each other. It happens that somebody will get up and sing a song or one of the famous Schnitzelbangg (group of singers reciting their verses on local topics from the past year) will treat us to a surprise preview of their verses for the upcoming Fasnacht (carnival).

In the evening I will meet my friends again, enjoy the nightly spectacle of the procession inside or outside and the impromptu meeting of old friends.

Wilde_Maa_inside

Gryff_inside

Leu_inside

Wilde Maa outside

Vogel Gryff outside

Do you like local customs? Do you have any favourite local customs? Do you have local customs you follow or are you even taking part in them? When travelling do you make sure to be part of any local festivities?


Links
English description:ย http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/destinations/culture/popular-customs-and-festivals-in-switzerland/vogel-gryff-in-basel-bs.html
German description:ย http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vogel_Gryff

Comments 32

  1. Loved reading this. Reading about cultures and their experiences and what each experience holds importance to them and how has always been fascinating for me!

      1. @Late_Bloomers Ya seems like I am the first to read a lot of posts today! Just feeling energetic!

        I love Eid! I am not a very dressing up girl but my sisters make sure I dress up for Eid… and if you have seen how beautifully Indians dress up.. you can imagine! Also, I love getting together with family and having the lovely meal. After one month of fasting, the joy of Eid becomes much more beautiful!

        1. @Hajra Eid, the end of Ramadan, and you figure prominently in it, Hajra was Abraham’s wife, beautiful holiday, and yes, I have seen the beautiful Indian women in their most beautiful clothes, stunning. I love the bipolar aspect to religious holidays: remembering the suffering, the sacrifice, the rejoicing in the end and the joy in looking forward to something new. And of course, all the food ….

  2. I love customs, although what I would consider to be “local” are actually customs that come from my parents/grandparents from Finland, and things that we continue in our home. When I travel, I’m up for anything! I love local events and festivities, and this one looks amazing:) Cheers! Kaarina

    1. @KDillabough Good morning to you, Kaarina: you are invited anytime you choose to come to Switzerland and take part in our local customs. The next will be Carnival at the end of February, always celebrated five weeks before Easter at the beginning of Lent. I actively take part in it, playing the piccolo, have done so for the last 40 years, can you imagine?

      Vogel Gryff is a little bit archaic, what with the rules of not accepting women in the societies, unthinkable of women playing one of the heraldic animals either … too heavy costumes in any case.

      I used to think differently but traditions are traditions.

      Have a great week, Barbara

  3. Thanks for sharing this festival with us Barbara! The video made me feel the excitement of it!

    We have an international Kite festival in our area which is a lot of fun. Every year we celebrate “Canada Day” by enjoying the fireworks. It’s fun to go to these events!

    Lori

    1. @Lori Hi Lori,

      Thanks for liking the video, another first time for me: I spent hours cutting it, the light conditions were not optimal (it was really grey and dark with sudden glimpses of sunshine), I used my iPhone, this would explain the wobbly quality of the zoomed raft sequences! But the joy of the children is evident, the half timid half daring approaching of the adolescent girls to try and catch an apple from the savage’s belt.

      I would love to see the Kite Festival, this sounds good to me. Do you have parades on Canada Day?

      Have a wonderful day, I am heading over to your page now, Barbara

      1. @Late_Bloomers We don’t have parades on Canada Day – only for Christmas (the Santa Claus parade). But I don’t seem to outgrow the excitement of seeing the fireworks. On a fine night we’ll walk the whole length of the riverside park. They shoot the fireworks from across the river. One year the full moon was rising as the fireworks went off! It was magical!

  4. I think Europe has much better customs with a lot more history attached. I guess the big things here are 4th of July, which is the US Independence Day and the Christmas parade. 4th of July is cool because it usually involves cookouts, drinks and fireworks. One of the best ones I attended was right on the beach and it was a very festive atmosphere; it was one of those perfect night.

    Your Vogel Gryff sounds like it would be a blast……….except for the liver……..no way, Jose…..bring on the wiener schnitzels……….

    Is there an economic distinction on the two sides of the river?

    Cool beans; thanks for sharing.

    1. @bdorman264 Hi, Bill,

      You are always welcome to import one of the European customs! Celebrating July 4th on the beach sounds very good to me, reserve a place for me, will you?

      Vogel Gryff: on one hand steeped in tradition, on the other cheerfully celebrating (and imbibing). BTW, her name is Eliza and yes, she would bring you the most succulent Wienerschnitzel (did you check out their website?)

      Clever Bill: before the bridge was built, there was only poverty in Kleinbasel, with it came prosperity, the building of crafts businesses and establishing guilds. Well into 20th century there was a social distinction between the two Basel: “better” people would live in Grossbasel and the “lower” classes on the other side of the Rhine, you could also tell from their language where they came from. These days it is different, amazing also that there is quite a high amount of foreigners living in Kleinbasel who are well integrated.

      Hope your week has taken a good start, good to talk to you and see you!

  5. Barbara, Thanks for the details on the festival. Beautiful shots by the way, and I’m not talking about the veal liver. Seriously, I’d give it a shot โ€ฆ nothing wrong with a little offal, prepared correctly, right? ๐Ÿ˜‰

    Seattle has a summer solstice parade in the neighborhood near my office building. It’s an eye-opening experience. Google, “Seattle summer solstice parade” and click images. A feast for the eyes ๐Ÿ™‚ Well glance through the images if you can handle it. Some people just shouldn’t take it all off.

    Actually one of my favorite festivals in an imported one, Oktoberfest โ€ฆ in the same neighborhood. Fun times!

    Thanks!

    1. @Craig McBreen Hi, Craig, lovely comment, thanks. Yes, the liver shot does not look too enticing, does it? As long as it is veal and prepared nicely, I love it. You know, as a child I did not have enough red blood cells and by doctor’s prescription was ordered to eat raw veal liver. And I liked it, argh, not any more, thank you.

      I will make sure to wear sunglasses when checking out the Seattle summer solstice parade, lucky for us that Carnival is in winter and again rather steeped in tradition!

      Oktoberfest – the best import article of Germany, eh? I like it too and we once had our own Oktoberfest at home, taking out all the furniture, decorating everything in white and blue, shlepping barrels of beer, tables and benches, Weisswรผrste, potato and coleslaw salad, Bretzel and the fitting music which I normally detest but which made everybody sing and dance along. Dress code: Bavarian style, it was really funny!

      Thanks for bringing back memories! Have a great day, Barbara

        1. @Craig McBreen absolutely! Let me tell you a secret: I prefer to drink beer out of normal wine glasses (the ones with a stem), this way the beers stays cool and fizzy, I do not like flat beer and lifting these steins would give me a muscleache! How do you like to drink your beer?

  6. Hi Barbara,

    That sounds and looks like a lot of fun. The way you incorporate photos and video into your posts makes a tremendous impact. They really help me see your story.

    On a sort of separate but related note I wonder sometimes how many relatives of mine are still in Europe. Most left or were killed so I can’t think of too many customs that were brought here from Europe.

    Whenever I travel I try to participate in the local festivities. I try to do my best to blend into the crowd, I like being able to watch.

    As for local customs, well there are parades and festivals all over the Southland so we try to hit many of them.

    1. @TheJackB Hi Jack,

      Thank you so much, would you believe I am more olfactory than visual? I find it most difficult to explain these strange customs to foreigners and pictures are worth a 1’000 words, no?

      Have you ever tried to find your relatives? When did your family arrive in the States? I also would love to know more about my father’s side, there is very little known except that they arrived in Switzerland from a long journey from Eastern Europe at the end of 19th century, losing their spiritual identity on the way.

      I can relate to blending into the crowd, not that many people would share this opinion of mine, another reason why I like our Fasnacht (carnival) because I can hide behind a mask.

  7. Hi Barbara,

    Another lovely post. I adore local customs and traditions and am so glad that they are kept alive for future generations to enjoy.

    In London we have the Lord Mayor’s Show, a parade, every November. Every Mayor of the City of London parades through the streets on the day of his inauguration and has done so for centuries. All of the city guilds, police, apprentices, marching bands take to the street on foot, horseback and on floats. It is quite a sight to behold. There is also a fairground, firework and lots of yummy food! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lord_Mayor's_Show

    Not to mention that tonight is Burns Night! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Burns_supper but I am working this year so there will be no Burns Supper for me this year!

    /hugs

    Kittie

    1. @kittiewalker Hi Kittie,

      Lovely comments, thanks a lot. I was once invited to an event in one of the guild halls, wow, great architecture and what an outward expression of the guild’s importance and standing.

      Unfortunately I never had a chance to see the Lord Mayor’s Show, who knows?

      Ah, Burns Night! This is also celebrated here in Basel, we have quite a big and active English speaking community. Which reminds me they promised an invite for this year, but I have yet to see it.

      Thanks for the links as well, I will check them out.

      Big hugs, Barbara

  8. When I moved to London, I realised that I was missing some local French customs, such as the Galette Des Rois, the Corso Fleuri. It is only when I left that I understood I was bit homesick.

    1. Thank you Muriel, is the Galette des Rois not a custom you celebrate with the family? It is here in Switzerland. Le corso fleuri, in the South of France, eh? Beautiful, I have seen it on tv many times but have never been able to see it personally. I completely understand about being homesick and longing for the most trivial stuff from home! It makes you appreciate things you took for granted, does it not?

      Guess what: rain again … Have a sunny Sunday!

  9. Ah it all sounds wonderful – all apart from the diced liver ๐Ÿ™‚ I love local customs when travelling. We don’t have many local customs here is Oz, which is perhaps one of the reasons I love getting out and exploring the world and other cultures so much.

    1. @JanineRipper Ah, Janine, you should hear a friend of mine who is a professional cook and is into foraging cooking, he would use everything!

      But you have Australia Day? How is that celebrated? Probably local customs were built centuries ago when the earth was still flat and the village green the horizon: one of the reasons we have so many here in Europe, and in our global village times we have broadenend our horizon (well, to a certain extent).

      1. @Late_Bloomers Australia Day is traditionally spent having a BBQ, trying to stay cool and getting drunk…I do believe that the government and the sensible drinking associations are trying to encourage a change from this ‘tradition’, which is a good thing as in the past things haven’t been too pretty. The actual day stems from the settling of Australia, which also can be a bone of contention as the settling being referred to is by white people, and not the indigenous owners of the land.

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