or What Has Meat Got To Do With It?
Fasnacht or Carnival celebrates (or mourns) the beginning of Lent, the period in which you are not supposed to eat meat. In Basel Fasnacht takes place one week after Ash Wednesday. It is known to be the biggest Protestant carnival of the world, with roughly 20’000 participants. Want more history and background information, in English here and here and here in German.
Another 16 hours before Basler Fasnacht starts at 4 am (yes, four o’clock in the morning) with Morgestraich.
Last year we were not in Basel for Fasnacht but in Thailand for our friends’ wedding. When it comes to Fasnacht, we are a little bit crazy and try to celebrate Morgestraich wherever we are in the world. And you better believe it: we celebrated Morgestraich on the rooftop of the Bangkok Hilton:
Forget about other carnivals where the most important thing is how little people are wearing, in Basel it is mandatory to wear a mask and costumes when participating.
On the Monday after Ash Wednesday, at 4 am on the dot, the lights go out all over Basel and the city’s Carnival is launched with the traditional Morgestraich, the only light coming from the huge lanterns and smaller ones on top of the masks. It is a very mystical and touching moment and I know I am not the only one who has tears softly rolling down my cheeks behind the mask.
For three days or 72 hours, Basel is bathed in a truly unique atmosphere as life goes topsy-turvy to the sound of thousands of fifes and drums.
I have been participating all my life, ever since I joined a clique as a child playing the Piccolo, a half-size flute.
We are a small group, a so called Schyssdräggzyygli, fifers only.
Officially, we start Fasnacht today with the traditional spaghettata, a gathering of family and friends at our home, starting at Sunday midday.
Later in the afternoon we go downtown to see the huge lanterns (they should be covered and only unveiled at 4 am) being brought into town.
Difficult to find some sleep (even after all these years) this night, I have to get up at 2 am, we are invited for the traditional Mehlsuppe (flour soup) at friends’ before Morgestraich.
And now let me say AADIE to you all, have a good time wherever you are and see you again after Fasnacht.
Comments 19
Did you say how little everyone is wearing? Where are the pics?
That is so cool to have this tradition and still have it being observed in a big way. Ixnay on the meat though; I have to modify any religion that preaches what you can or can’t eat or when. That’s just crazy talk to me……..:).
Thanks for sharing; hope you are well.
@bdorman264 Haha, no, it is the other way round! Pics coming and cloths fitting a Canadian winter!
These special holidays have also special dishes: poor man’s soup, onion and/or cheese tart, fried sweet stuff etc.
Thanks, I am fine, had a beautiful Morgestraich and will soon head out again to see the parade. Hope everything is fine with you, looks you have a very busy schedule with all the golf playing and winning TV screens!
I LOVE the idea of carnival, celebration and ritual. Something that is far less celebrated in North America, so I do hold fast to some Finnish traditions and ways of celebrating, and have passed them along within my family here.
I was laughing out loud at the toilet plunger orchestra wand: what a hoot!
Enjoy the festivities: we’ll look forward to seeing the photos! As the newly-minted non-smoker that you are, I’m sure the colours and fun will be even brighter this year. Soooo proud of you:) Cheers! Kaarina
@KDillabough Hi, Kaarina!
Yes, what an adventure this was on the rooftop of the Bangkok Hilton, makes me laugh every time I see it! Magic wand in every sense of the word!
The skies are smiling on us here in Basel: springlike weather today, great to be outside and enjoy the parade, the beautiful lanterns, lovely costumes and music.
@Late_Bloomers I look forward to seeing photos of that lovely event:) Lanterns, costumes and music…sigh…:))))
It sounds marvellous Barbara!
@JanineRipper Hi, Janine, it was beautiful and now I am very tired!
Oh, the masks we wear…eh?
I love how people come together to celebrate and just have fun. But celebrate gloom… be happy that we are sad… 😉
@Hajra Hey, Hajra, it was a happy celebration for three days in beautiful sunshine and warmer temperatures, glad for it not being too warm as it gets unbearably hot wearing a mask and costume.
The “mourning” bit was meant ironically for all these people who would miss eating like pigs during the 40 days till Easter (I do not know how many still follow these rules) as they are supposed to forego meat and fat dishes (hence the expression “mardi gras” or fat Tuesday, in our region it would be “Schmutziger Donnerstag” or fat Thursday). 😉
It sounds like fun. But, Barbara, I am dying to ask you a question. Apparently, what happens during the Carnival stays in the Carnival and romantic encounters, even without commitments, are allowed. Is it true? Sorry, I just had to ask…
@JSJ2020 Haha, Muriel, the never ending curiosity … I can only speak for myself and let other people keep their little secrets: no time for hankypanky! But come next year and convince yourself!
What fun! And the masks are so elaborate and beautiful.
What fun and the masks! Wow, so elaborate ad beautiful.
@laliavoce Hi, Lalia, it was huge fun and I always wonder at the creativity put into making the costumes, masks and lanterns. And the energy we seem to bring up for these 72 hours … very exhausted now and trying to follow up on everything else!
I am loving that last (jester) mask! Just curious….so do you really follow the ‘no-meat rule’? I’m Catholic and grew up with it (knowing the tradition, I mean), but my family was never strict with it. As an adult, I’ve begun to question the legitimacy of the practice. How can I not when in the Philippines, prices of fish / seafood become almost oppressive during lent….businesses obviously taking advantage.
I am loving that last (jester) mask! Just curious….so do you really follow the ‘no-meat rule’? I’m Catholic and grew up with it (knowing the tradition, I mean), but my family was never strict with it. As an adult, I’ve begun to question the legitimacy of the practice. How can I not when in the Philippines, prices of fish / seafood become almost oppressive during lent….businesses obviously taking advantage.
@jpage.manuel Hey Joy, I love that mask too! It is my favourite. It is not very suited for playing the piccolo as you cannot hear much in it.
There is a very very long story to the making of the costume, the short of it: I wanted to have the costume tailormade in Thailand, took patterns, pictures etc. with me. Finally found an Indian tailor after a Chinese and Thai refused to do it, was promised woolen lining. The outcome was a weightlight temple costume – a very stubborn interpretation of a temple dancer’s costume! Ah, and I did not mention that it was not ready on time and they sent it to me to Switzerland. But I never paid except for the deposit.
No, I do not follow the tradition as I am not a Catholic. But in any case I rarely eat meat (by inclination). Prices for fish and seafood are skyrocketing in Switzerland which I think is ok considering that we should take more care of our food resources and not exploiting them.
I am loving that last (jester) mask! Just curious….so do you really follow the ‘no-meat rule’? I’m Catholic and grew up with it (knowing the tradition, I mean), but my family was never strict with it. As an adult, I’ve begun to question the legitimacy of the practice. How can I not when in the Philippines, prices of fish / seafood become almost oppressive during lent….businesses obviously taking advantage.
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